HOW TO FIND YARN COUNT FOR GIVEN FABRIC GSM:

HOW TO FIND YARN COUNT FOR GIVEN FABRIC GSM:

Many times, the customer asks to develop a particular fabric gsm for his special requirements. He doesn't have any specific information about fabric except fabric gsm. He also asks to meet his target price of given fabric gsm. The job of weaver starts from here. He needs to decide on suitable yarn counts. He also keeps the target price in his mind.  A big deviation in the target price may cause the cancellation of the expected order. The yarn slippage in the warp or weft direction gets very important when a weaver make the decision of ends per inch Or picks per inch. If you select coarse warp and weft count and select fewer ends per inch and picks per inch, there may be occurred high slippage between warp and weft. If the weaver selects finer yarn count and tries to achieve given gsm, the weaving gets impossible after a situation ( saturation of ends and picks in the fabric). You can also say that you can not increase ends per inch and picks per in after achieving the maximum fabric cover factor. Now weaver needs the experience to find the yarn count, ends per inch, and picks per inch. There is not any direct formula to find the warp count, weft count, EPI, PPI, by gsm. You can find maximum EPI and PPI for a given count as follows:

In this calculation, some parameters have been assumed. Some parameters have been given on an experience basis. 
Warp regain    = 11℅
Weft   regain    = 4 ℅
Ratio of ends/inch : picks/inch = 55 :45 to 52 : 48
( these data base on the experience. This ratio gives optimum productivity, efficiency and quality). 
Warp cover = 48 %
Weft cover  =  45 %
Warp cover factor = 13.44
Weft cover factor  =  12.60
Weave = 1/1  ( plain) 

We are giving some possible count and constructions with fabric gsm. 

Please click on the below video link to watch the full article in Hindi:

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