Wednesday, September 25, 2019



Many times, customer asks to develop particular fabric gsm for his special requirements. He doesn't have any any specific information about fabric except fabric gsm. He also asks to meet his target price of givin fabric gsm. The job of weaver start from here. He needs to decide suitable yarn counts. He also keeps the target price in his mind.  Big deviation in target price may cause cancellation of expected order. The yarn slippage in the warp or weft direction gets very important when a weaver make the decision of ends per inch Or picks per inch. If you select coarse warp and weft count and selects less ends per inch and picks per inch, there may be occurred high slippage between warp and weft. If weaver selects finer yarn count and tries to achieve given gsm, the weaving gets impossible after a situation ( saturation of ends and picks in the fabric) . You can also say that you can not increase ends per inch and picks per in after achieving maximum fabric cover factor. Now weaver need experience to find the yarn count, ends per inch, and picks per inch. There is not any direct formula to find the warp count, weft count, EPI, PPI, by gsm. You can find maximum EPI and PPI for a given count as follows:

In this calculation some parameters have been assumed. Some parameters have been given on the experience basis. 
Warp regain    = 11℅
Weft   regain    = 4 ℅
Ratio of ends/inch : picks/inch = 55 :45 to 52 : 48
( these data base on the experience. This ratio gives optimum productivity, efficiency and quality). 
Warp cover = 48 %
Weft cover  =  45 %
Warp cover factor = 13.44
Weft cover factor  =  12.60
Weave = 1/1  ( plain) 

We are giving some possible count and constructions with fabric gsm. 

You may also be interested in following articles:                          

New English count Ne) , an indirect yarn count system
Ring frame process and it's objectives

No comments:

Post a Comment

Featured Post

फैब्रिक प्रॉपर्टीज भाग - ३ ( fabric properties part - 3)

 फैब्रिक प्रॉपर्टीज भाग - ३ फैब्रिक पिलिंग:   जब कपड़े का उपयोग परिधान, फ्लैट शीट, फिटेड शीट, कार शीटिंग, टेबल लिनन आदि के लिए किया जाता है,...