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Sunday, February 24, 2019
HANDLE OF THE FABRIC, FABRIC PROPERTIES OF WOVEN FABRIC
3- Handle of the fabric:“Fabric handle tells us about the degree of softness, stiffness, hardness, smoothness or roughness of the fabric”. It is judge by touching the fabric by hand simply. Following factors directly influence the handle of the fabric:
Type of material used: the handle of the fabric is directly associated with the type of material used in the fabric. If the yarn has long staple and low micronaire value fibres, the fabric shows a high degree of softness. If the fabric is woven with the short staple, and high micronaire value fibres, it gives a hard feel to the user.
Yarn twist: the degree (amount) of yarn twist greatly affects the feel and touch of the fabric. If we weave two fabrics having identical count and construction and we use high twist yarn in one fabric and low twist yarn in another fabric. The fabric woven from low twist yarn will give more soft feel and touch than the fabric woven from high twisted yarn.
Fabric construction: the construction (ends per inch and picks per inch) of the fabric affects the touch and feel of the fabric. If a fabric has 30s x 30s, 72 x 68 construction and another equivalent to this fabric have construction 28s x 28s, 70 x 66. The GSM of both of the fabric will be almost equal but the feel and touch of second fabric will be better than the first fabric due to more air space present in the second fabric.
Weight per square unit of the fabric: the weight per square unit( grams per square meter or grams per square yard) also influences the touch and feel of the feel of the fabric. If a fabric has been woven with given fabric construction. If weaver increases the GSM or GYM of the fabric slightly by increasing picks per inch, the feel of the fabric also becomes slightly harder than previous fabric.
A weave of the fabric: The weave of the fabric directly affects the touch and feel of the fabric. A user can make a comparison between two fabrics of the same count and construction and there is the difference of weave only. The satin weave has better feel and touch than plain weave. How does it happen? It can be explained on the basis of float length of warp and weft. Plain weave has the minimum float length and the satin weave has more float length than plain weave. Due to the big float length, the satin weave gives a softer feel than plain weave. Related articles: Moisture absobency of the fabric