Thursday, May 16, 2019

SEERSUCKER FABRICS , METHOD OF ANALYSIS , WEAVING OF SEERSUCKER FABRIC , FABRIC WEIGHT CALCULATION, PROCESSING OF SEERSUCKER FABRIC

SEERSUCKER FABRICS , METHOD OF ANALYSIS ,  WEAVING OF SEERSUCKER FABRIC , FABRIC WEIGHT CALCULATION, PROCESSING OF SEERSUCKER FABRIC.

SEERSUCKER FABRICS: 

Seersucker fabric is a woven fabric having regular puckering effect on the fabric surface. This puckering effect is created on the fabric surface by using differential warp tensions for different groups of warp ends. The created puckering effect appearing on the fabric surface looks less prominent if only differential warp tension is used in the weaving. If we use two weaves separately for different groups of warp ends too, the puckering effect gets more prominent in the fabric. If we use differential take – up motion during weaving of seersucker fabric, the puckering effect gets to the maximum level.


                       SEERSUCKER FABRIC

Method of analysis of seersucker fabrics:

The method of seersucker fabric analysis differs in some respects.

Ends /inch:

The EPI are checked at the flat area as well as puckering area because there is always a probability of differential denting order in the seersucker fabric. Please we aware that light seersucker effect is possible by using differential denting order for different groups of warp ends. Now question may arise why this thing happens? The only reason behind this effect is the differential shrinkage resulting after washing.

Picks/inch:

The picks per inch in the seersucker fabric may be different at different places of the fabric. This happens just because of differential picks per inch ( variable pick density ) in the seersucker fabric. Here extra care is recommended during analysis of picks per inch in the fabric. Technician should count the picks per inch at flat area as well as puckering area separately.

Warp count : 

There is always a possibility of two warp count in seersucker fabric. The warp count of flat and puckering area should be analysed separately.

Weft count:

There may be used two or more weft count in seersucker fabric. The weft count analysis of seersucker fabric should be carried out at flat and puckering area separately.

Warp Crimp:

This is the most important factor of seersucker fabric. The warp  crimp % of puckering is always more that the warp crimp of the flat area. The warp crimp of seersucker fabric should be calculated separately for flat and puckering area. Extra careness during the determination of warp crimp is recommended.
Weft crimp: normally, the weft crimp is equal for flat and puckering area both. In case if differential weft count, it may be differ slightly.

GSM: 
Since we know very well that seersucker fabric has puckering effect, therefore the grams per square metre varies place to place in the fabric. We should cut the round discs from various places and the average weight of these round disc should be calculated. The best way to determine the GSM if seersucker fabric is to linear weight per metre of the fabric by weighing the correct one metre of the fabric precisely and GSM should be calculated by using formula.

Method of weaving of seersucker fabric:
Raw material selection:

The weaving of the seersucker fabric is little bit difficult. It requires extra careness before start of weaving. There are two warp beams are used to manufacture the seersucker fabric. All the tight ends are wrapped on one warp beam. Another warp beam is used for loose ends separately. The tight beam wears whole warp tension during weaving because the puckering effect is obtained by loose beam. Here weaver face a problem of warp tension because full warp tension during weaving wears by tight beam only. If the warp yarn quality is poor, the fabric gets torn out during weaving. You should be very careful about selection of yarn quality.

Required loom specifications: 

The loom should be equipped with dobby, double warp beam attachment ( both beam driven separately), variable pick density( cremming motion or programmable pick density) and multi colour weft selector.

Warping process:

There are two series of warp used to weave seersucker fabric. Both warp series require separate warp beam.
The tight warp beam length is calculated according to requirement of the  fabric. The length of loose warp is determined after calculation of ratio between  tight warp and loose warp.

Drawing process: 

The selection of drawing sequence plays an important role in weaving of seersucker fabric. You don’t select correct drawing sequence, the quality of the fabric to be woven influences badly as well as productivity.
The ends of the loose beam should be drawn in front heald shaft . Now a question may arise in your mind why front Heald shafts are used for loose beam ends. The front Heald shafts form clear shed. They also require minimum lift . Since we know the loose beam works on lower warp tension, therefore chances of floating ends are always there.
Tight ends are drawn in rare Heald shafts.

Selection of drop wire of electrical warp stop motion:

The electrical warp stop motion is always a very big issue in weaving of seersucker fabric. Since we know that the loose warp beam requires very low warp tension during weaving, therefore these loose ends generate the false warp break stop during weaving. We have seen practically that it is almost impossible to avoid false warp break stops completely. But we can avoid false warp breaks by using proper drop wires up to maximum extent.
We should use light weight drop wires for loose ends and normal weight drop wire for tight ends. This practice gives improved results in terms of false warp break stops.

Dobby settings:

The loom settings specially dobby setting is very important in weaving of seersucker fabric. Dobby crossing timing is kept slightly earlier than normal. The shed opening of loose ends is kept little bit more than normal.

Adjustment of degree of puckering:

Since we know the puckering of seersucker is the beauty of fabric. Any uneven , irregular or low puckering may be the reason of fabric rejection. The puckering is regulated by warp tension. If you want much puckering, you should increase tight warp tension and reduce the loose warp beam tension.
The puckering can also be increased by increasing pick density in puckering area.

Calculations of seersucker fabric:



Processing of seer sucker fabric:

These fabrics are manufactured by using dyed yarn. If we use piece dyeing, the shades of flat area and puckering area do not match to each other. Fabric should we washed in soft flow or winch dyeing machine to avoid distortion of fabric. Please not puckering pattern may change during dyeing if seersucker fabric comes under tension. The puckering may be reduced too.
                             THE ENDS

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