Thursday, May 16, 2019

SEERSUCKER FABRICS , METHOD OF ANALYSIS , WEAVING OF SEERSUCKER FABRIC , FABRIC WEIGHT CALCULATION, PROCESSING OF SEERSUCKER FABRIC

SEERSUCKER FABRICS, METHOD OF ANALYSIS,  WEAVING OF SEERSUCKER FABRIC, FABRIC WEIGHT CALCULATION, PROCESSING OF SEERSUCKER FABRIC.

SEERSUCKER FABRICS: 

Seersucker fabric is a woven fabric having a regular puckering effect on the fabric surface. This puckering effect is created on the fabric surface by using differential warp tensions for different groups of warp ends. The created puckering effect appearing on the fabric surface looks less prominent if only differential warp tension is used in the weaving. If we use two weaves separately for different groups of warp ends too, the puckering effect gets more prominent in the fabric. If we use differential take–up motion during weaving of seersucker fabric, the puckering effect gets to the maximum level.


                       SEERSUCKER FABRIC

Method of analysis of seersucker fabrics:

The method of seersucker fabric analysis differs in some respects.

Ends /inch:

The EPI is checked at the flat area as well as the puckering area because there is always a probability of differential denting order in the seersucker fabric. Please be aware that the light seersucker effect is possible by using differential denting order for different groups of warp ends. Now the question may arise why does this thing happen? The only reason behind this effect is the differential shrinkage resulting after washing.

Picks/inch:

The picks per inch in the seersucker fabric may be different at different places of the fabric. This happens just because of differential picks per inch ( variable pick density ) in the seersucker fabric. Here extra care is recommended during the analysis of picks per inch in the fabric. Technicians should count the picks per inch at the flat area as well as the puckering area separately.

Warp count : 

There is always a possibility of two warp counts in seersucker fabric. The warp count of flat and puckering areas should be analysed separately.

Weft count:

There may be used two or more weft count in seersucker fabric. The weft count analysis of seersucker fabric should be carried out at flat and puckering areas separately.

Warp Crimp:

This is the most important factor of seersucker fabric. The warp crimp % of puckering is always more than the warp crimp of the flat area. The warp crimp of seersucker fabric should be calculated separately for the flat and puckering areas. Extra care ness during the determination of warp crimp is recommended.
Weft crimps: normally, the weft crimp is equal for both flat and puckering areas both. In the case of differential weft counts, it may differ slightly.

GSM: 
Since we know very well that seersucker fabric has a puckering effect, therefore the grams per square metre varies from place to place in the fabric. We should cut the round discs from various places and the average weight of these round discs should be calculated. The best way to determine the GSM if seersucker fabric is to linear weight per metre of the fabric by weighing the correct one metre of the fabric precisely and GSM should be calculated by using formula.

Method of weaving of seersucker fabric:
Raw material selection:

The weaving of the seersucker fabric is a little bit difficult. It requires extra care ness before the start of weaving. There are two warp beams are used to manufacture the seersucker fabric. All the tight ends are wrapped on one warp beam. Another warp beam is used for loose ends separately. The tight beam wears whole warp tension during weaving because the puckering effect is obtained by the loose beam. Here weaver faces a problem of warp tension because full warp tension during weaving wears by tight beam only. If the warp yarn quality is poor, the fabric gets torn out during weaving. You should be very careful about the selection of yarn quality.

Required loom specifications: 

The loom should be equipped with dobby, double warp beam attachment ( both beam driven separately), variable pick density( cramming motion or programmable pick density) and multicolour weft selector.

Warping process:

There are two series of warp used to weave seersucker fabric. Both warp series require separate warp beams.
The tight warp beam length is calculated according to the requirement of the fabric. The length of the loose warp is determined after the calculation of the ratio between the tight warp and the loose warp.

Drawing process: 

The selection of drawing sequence plays an important role in the weaving of seersucker fabric. You don’t select the correct drawing sequence, the quality of the fabric to be woven influences badly as well as productivity.
The ends of the loose beam should be drawn in front heald shaft. Now a question may arise in your mind why front Heald shafts are used for loose beam ends. The front Heald shafts form a clear shed. They also require minimum lift. Since we know the loose beam works on lower warp tension, therefore chances of floating ends are always there.
Tight ends are drawn in rare Heald shafts.

Selection of drop wire of electrical warp stop motion:

The electrical warp stop motion is always a very big issue in the weaving seersucker fabric. Since we know that the loose warp beam requires very low warp tension during weaving, therefore these loose ends generate the false warp break stop during weaving. We have seen practically that it is almost impossible to avoid false warp break stops completely. But we can avoid false warp breaks by using proper drop wires up to the maximum extent.
We should use lightweight drop wires for loose ends and normal weight drop wires for tight ends. This practice gives improved results in terms of false warp break stops.

Dobby settings:

The loom settings especially the dobby setting is very important in the weaving of seersucker fabric. Dobby crossing timing is kept slightly earlier than normal. The shed opening of loose ends is kept a little bit more than normal.

Adjustment of the degree of puckering:

Since we know the puckering of seersucker is the beauty of the fabric. Any uneven, irregular or low puckering may be the reason for fabric rejection. The puckering is regulated by warp tension. If you want much puckering, you should increase tight warp tension and reduce the loose warp beam tension.
The puckering can also be increased by increasing pick density in the puckering area.

Calculations of seersucker fabric:



Processing of seersucker fabric:

These fabrics are manufactured by using dyed yarn. If we use piece dyeing, the shades of a flat area and puckering area do not match each other. The fabric should be washed in a soft flow or winch dyeing machine to avoid distortion of the fabric. Please note puckering pattern may change during dyeing if seersucker fabric comes under tension. The puckering may be reduced too.
                           
Please click on the below video link to watch the full article in Hindi:

No comments:

Post a Comment

Featured Post

हाई टेम्परेचर एंड हाई प्रेशर सॉफ्ट फ्लो डाइंगमशीन

  Please click on the below link to read this article in English: High-temperature high-pressure soft flow dyeing machine हाई टेम्परेचर एंड ...