Sunday, May 19, 2019

PLEATED FABRIC, METHOD OF ANALYSIS, WEAVING OF PLEATED FABRIC, DESIGNING OF PLEATED FABRIC, CALCULATIONS OF PLEATED FABRIC

PLEATED FABRIC, METHOD OF ANALYSIS, WEAVING OF PLEATED FABRIC,  DESIGNING OF PLEATED FABRIC,  CALCULATIONS OF PLEATED FABRIC:

The pleated fabric is a specific category fabric. The weaving of this kind of fabric needs extra care, technical skills and double beam attachment with positive let-off drives. This kind of fabric consists of two series of warp ends and one series of picks. There are two warp beams used to weave a pleated fabric. One beam unwinds at normal tension. This beam is known as a tight beam. Another beam unwinds at very low warp tension. This beam is called a loose beam.








  Method of analysis:

The method of analysis of pleated fabric is almost similar to that of normal fabric. The picks per inch are determined by using a different method. The average picks per inch are calculated by counting the number of picks present in the full repeat and measuring the length of repeat in the weft direction. The repeat size is measured in inches. The number of picks in repeat is divided by repeat size. Thus average picks per inch are found.
EPI of the fabric is counted on the back of the fabric.

Warping of pleated fabric :  

Loose and tight warp beams consist of equal ends. Half of the ends are wrapped on one warp beam and another half of the ends are wrapped on the other warp beam.

Drawing - in : 

proper drawing – in sequence selection is very important in the weaving of pleated fabric. The tight ends should be drawn through the heald wires of rare heald shafts. The loose ends should be drawn through the heald wires of front heald shafts. This sequence gives improved results in terms of both quality and productivity both.

Warp tension settings: 

The warp tension plays a very important role in the formation of pleats. The tight beam requires normal tension. The loose needs very low tension. The tension should be adjusted according to pleate size. The tension of the loose beam greatly affects the shape and size of pleats to be formed during weaving. The first 4 heald shafts are used for loose ends and the last 4 heald shafts are used for tight ends. The possible drawing sequence may be as follows:
1,5,2,6,3,7,4,8.

Selection of electrical drop wires:

Since we know that loose warp ends require very low warp tension during weaving of the pleated fabric, therefore, the problem of false warp break stops occurs during weaving. This problem increases the fabric defects and decreases productivity. This problem of false warp break stops can be minimised up to a minimum level by using proper drop wires.  The drop wires used in the loose beam should be lightweight as compared to tight warp ends.

Pleate size adjustment:

The pleate size of the fabric depends upon the number of picks inserted in the pleate and the warp tension of loose ends. If the tension is more than required, the pleate size can be decreased.

Dobby settings:

Dobby setting is a very important factor in the weaving of pleated fabric. Early shed opening gives a better advantage in terms of quality and efficiency.  The warp breaks and warp floating problems are minimised. The shed angle of the heald shafts used for loose ends should be kept more than normal to avoid the warp floating problem.

Calculations of pleated fabric:
                           

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